This is the tale of two trails. Because of COVID, it was necessary to modify our summer travel plans. We usually take one “big” trip either in the summer or fall. This year, we had planned to travel to Prince Edward Island, Canada. With that not possible, we decided to stay closer to home and cabin. We took a long weekend and traveled from our cabin near Munising, Michigan to Copper Harbor located at the very northern tip of the Upper Peninsula. Along the way we hiked two excellent, but very different trails. This is the tale of two trails.
Canyon Falls trail is on the Sturgeon River along Highway M38 outside of L’Anse. It is early September and the day is cool and rainy. We park the camper, pull on our rain gear – for me that includes my rain coat over a light down jacket over a fleece and long sleeve t-shirt. I pull rain pants over my yoga pants. I like to be warm. I also wear a headband and gloves. You may be wondering why I even have a headband and gloves with me in September, but if you know the UP of Michigan at all, you know it can be cold and/or hot, sometimes on the same day. On my feet, waterproof hiking boots.
The trail leaves from a nice, large parking lot. Picnic tables and pit toilets are available. The beginning of the trail is low and wet, especially on this rainy day. We walk along boardwalks over the damp, squishy forest terrain. The trees are thick providing a dense canopy. So thick, that in some places the ground is dry even though it’s been drizzling all day. Here and there a red leaf, yellow fern or orange mushroom add color to the mossy green foliage. This trail always reminds me of a rain forest, even on drier days. The trees are at the earliest stages of their fall celebration. In little over a quarter of a mile we come to the river. From here the hike changes from a pleasant hike in the woods to a specular hike along a rushing cascade. We follow the rushing river deeper into the woods. The trail is rocky. Large shelves of rock beckoned us out onto the river. But be careful if you answer the rivers call – these rooks are extremely slippery. One step and down I go, thankfully, nothing is broken.
The trail follows the river as it drops over a beautiful waterfalls and into the canyon below. We continue along the canyons edge for about a mile and a half. Large rocks jut into the deep canyon and trees line the top. After that the canyon flattens out. The trail continues within view of the river for a bit longer before veering away. If we kept going, following the blue blazes on trees along the trail through the thick woods, we would end up in North Dakota. But we’re hungry and dusk is approaching. We reluctantly turn and head back. This hike is part of the North Country National Scenic Trail that goes from New York to North Dakota.
Unless you plan to walk to North Dakota, Canyon Falls is an “out and back” trail, meaning that you hike in, turn around and hike out along the same trail. It always amazes me how different a hike can look when hiked in the opposite direction, so don’t “let out and back” hikes put you off. On this damp day we hiked 4 miles round trip.
Canyon Falls is one of my favorite Michigan hikes. Like most of the UP, it can be buggy in the spring and early summer, and crowded on beautiful, hot, late summer days. I recommend visiting in the fall or winter. If you plan on hiking this trail with kids, be aware there are few guard rails and the canyon is deep and rocky.
The second hike in the tale of two trails is the hike up Mt. Baldy in the Nature Conservancy’s Helmut and Candis Stern Preserve at Mt Baldy. The trailhead is outside the small town of Eagle Harbor, Michigan. The weather was cool, about 52 degrees and partly cloudy. Today I’m wearing a fleece, down jacket, yoga pants and hiking boots. The trail is surprisingly sandy to start out. Walking up one particularly long dune like hill we spot a very large, very fresh bear track in the soft sand. We keep up an occasional call of “Yooo Bear” for a good part of the hike just to let Mr. Bear know we are on the trail. We climb gradually for the first two miles on a narrow two track road. The trail is easy however, we do have to cross one bubbling creek. The woods that surround us are a pretty mix of hardwoods interspersed with stands of birch. The white bark of the birch trees looks delightful among the darker pine, maple and plentiful oak.
At about two miles, the trail narrows and becomes rockier. We climb aware that although we are still in the woods, we were ascending onto a ridge. At about three and a half miles we break out into the light. Views of Lake Superior and the surrounding forest are incredible. But we were still not at the top. Another half mile, four miles total, and we are on the top of Mt. Baldy. Lake Superior sparkles in the sunlight from its rocky shoreline to the horizon. The only signs of civilization are Eagle Harbor below and a few radio towers way off in the distance. The rolling landscape is covered with forest and lakes. After a snack of granola bars and a short rest, we reverse order and hike down. Down is faster and easier.
I highly recommend both the Canyon Falls and the Mt Baldy trails.
A few notes about gear:
- I love, love, love my Lowe boots. They are waterproof so I can feel confident when I have to walk in the water, light and have great traction (except on wet, mossy rock that I should have expected to be very slippery). I like boots that come part way up my ankle for extra support when climbing up and down hilly terrain. Mine are pink!
- I have what I call “summer” down. They are light down jackets from Eddie Bauer and one slightly heavier from Marmot. They are great jackets. The Eddie Bauer ones can be stuffed into their own pocket so they are easy to pack. They are light and easy to carry if you get too warm and have to remove a layer. They also fit under a raincoat if needed.
- A good raincoat and rain pants are essential. Not the heavy rubber kind, but the waterproof, light shell type.
- A daypack is handy. We have tried lots of different kinds and finally discovered some from Eddie Bauer. I have a large backpack that I travel with for my laptop, cords, hats, gloves, head lamp… but I don’t hike with it because I don’t want to empty it every time we go on a day hike. The ones we finally settled on are light day packs that, like the down jackets, stuff into one of their own pockets when they’re not being used. When we’re heading out for a hike, we throw in the essentials, water (they have great mesh pockets for water bottles), snacks, extra clothes, sunscreen or bug spray, and were ready to go.
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